2007年2月10日星期六

抗皺霜沒有功效?

近期看時尚雜誌,看到這隻產品有推廣中,因價錢比較貴,又是自己不知的產品,因而回家上網找尋有沒有用後感的發表,竟然給我找到這文章。另外在台灣的網頁tw.bbs.sci.medicine也有提到這些品牌。

女人錢真易賺(^.^)

Is StriVectin SD the New Botox?
Dec 19 '04

The Bottom Line You must stay out of the sun and keep your skin moisturized. After that, some ingredients seem to help but more permanent solutions are an option for many including me.

I am the first one to admit that I want to look the age I feel or close to it. I know I will never look 30 again. However people have taken me for 35, 40, 45; certainly not 52. In 1999 I had Cosmetic Surgery. Since then I have mentioned that I have had injections of Restylane in my review of Lancome Resolution D-Contraxol Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Treatment.

In the meantime each time I went into Filene‘s I read the box and thought about buying a product called StriVectin SD. The product was selling for around $165.00. I saw what was touted as a similar product in Vitamin World called Strixaderm MD for much less. The sign said that it was similar to StriVectin SD but had one ingredient missing. It was selling for about $60.

I have recently seen a product called PreVentin-AT at CVS for less than $30 which also compares itself to StriVectin SD. The day I went into Filene’s back in September to by more Lancome Resolution, I decided to try StriVectin SD. I want to look at these three products, compare what is in them to find out if saving $100 makes sense. I do know that I will continue with this type of line and stop buying the multitude of products by L’Oreal, Neutrogena on and on and on that claim to turn back the clock. I am also going to let you know what I found on the Internet about skin care.

Although I have repeatedly (in comments primarily) said that I really do not think these creams can turn the clock back, I do believe there are some ingredients in them that add collagen, plump up the skin, and temporarily make face lines look less deep or they may smooth them out. It was not until I used Lancome that I truly saw a difference and not since I have used StriVectin SD that I am convinced there is something about it that works.

Having said all this I recently had my second injection of Restylane. Restylane is the new collagen injection that has come out on the market. What is good about it is that it is made with non-animal stabilized hyaluronic acid. Collagen, which you can still get, is animal based and requires testing for allergies. Collagen is less expensive and lasts for a shorter period of time than Restylane. This last injection was $550 for one syringe full and lasts for about 6 months.

I do not believe anything can do what Restylane does for me. We can keep trying and spending money on over the counter products that “appear” to minimize lines. Perhaps if you are 25 and stay out of the sun the product will help. I do not think that most products will do anything about the deep line I had around my lip that Restylane took care of or around my mouth. StriVectin SD has helped enormously with fine lines around my eyes (They are not deep enough and really cannot be seen unless I smile so my doctor will not use Botox unless he can see a line when my face is relaxed. Ditto for the tiny line between my brows.) I use StriVectin SD in conjunction with my Restylane injections for those areas, my neck and my hands. I also use it over the areas that have been injected because I find it to be a nice moisturizer and we know that one reason skin ages or looks aged is due to dryness.

Skin Care:

Please remember that any website (According to my daughter who is in medical school a website which does not end with edu or org can only be taken with a grain of salt. I hear this on a weekly basis. This is one of them called skincare.com.) I found the information helpful and interesting however. This has been adapted from that site.

Chronologic aging causes changes in collagen and elastin. Elastin is the connective tissues that supply firmness and elasticity to the skin. The genetic program of individuals is different, so the loss of skin firmness and elasticity occurs at different rates and different times in one individual as compared to another. As skin becomes less elastic, it also becomes drier and underlying fat padding begins to disappear. With the loss of underlying support by fat padding and connective tissues, the skin begins to sag; it appears less supple and wrinkles form.

Looking at my mom who is 74 you will see a woman with many, many lines. She has been a sun worshiper. I grew up using baby oil and iodine and baking in the sun. You will pay for that beautiful tan later on if you care about wrinkles. Always use sunscreen with an SPF (sun protection factor) or at least 15. I will not even go into the direct link the sun has to skin cancer.

After years of research, scientists, dermatologists and plastic surgeons have discovered that a variety of natural ingredients and vitamin extracts significantly help slow down and even reverse the signs of aging skin. These ingredients are now found in many physician developed and physician recommended anti-aging skin care products, which are specified below. Note: I have not listed all the brands that the site does.

Vitamin A (Retinol) - Topical Vitamin A has been suggested to help build collagen fibers within the skin in addition to its more superficial exfoliating property. This is the basis for its use in minimizing the appearance of fine wrinkle lines. Vitamin A or Retinol is the main ingredient found in M.D. Forte and SkinScience products.

Vitamin C - Vitamin C or ascorbic acid acts as an antioxidant and is considered vital in wound healing because it aids in stabilizing collagen. When applied topically, vitamin C can reduce fine lines and wrinkles and may lessen the severity of sunburns. This healing ingredient is found in SkinCeuticals, Cellex C and Obagi Cffectives skin care products.

Vitamin E - Vitamin E is another antioxidant that shows to have anti-inflammatory effects on the skin. When applied topically, vitamin E has been shown to improve moisturization, softness and smoothness and also provides modest photo protection. Vitamin E is found in Cellex C and MD Forte products. I have reviewed so many beauty products. This is just one of the many times I have researched them. You will find others who believe that Vitamin E cannot be absorbed through the skin and used topically is a waste of money.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) - AHAs are designed to smooth fine lines and surface wrinkles, to improve skin texture and tone, to unblock and cleanse pores, to improve oily skin or acne, and to improve skin condition in general. AHAs are the main ingredients found in MD Forte, TYK Young Again and SkinScience products.

Glycolic Acid - Glycolic acid is the most active and beneficial of the Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids (AHAs) in skin care. Once inside the cells, the acid triggers new formations of collagen to plump cells and the ground substances in the skin to reduce wrinkles on the skin‘s surface. Glycolic acid is proven to be very effective in the treatment of acne as well as in cosmetic uses. Glycolic acid is found in products by Gly Derm and MD Forte.
Idebenone -Idebenone is the synthetic variant of the natural compound ubiquinone. Both powerful antioxidants, idebenone and ubiquinone shield skin from environmental damage, improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, reduce dryness and smooth skin texture.

N-6 furfuryladenine (kinetin) - The nature-identical plant growth factor, furfuryladenine, retards the aging of plant cells as well as in vitro human skin fibroblasts. This natural, anti-aging ingredient has been proven to reduce wrinkles and fine lines and is exclusively found in Kinerase creams and lotions. This is a proven alternative for people with sensitive skin or people who are sensitive to products containing Retinol and Vitamin C.

Copper Peptides - Copper Peptides are the latest scientific breakthrough in skin rejuvenation. Copper has been found to naturally firm the skin, enhance elasticity, and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Copper is the main ingredient in products by Neova. You will also find it in the Neutrogena line. I know since that was one of the many I tried.

Pal-KTTKS - Pal-KTTKS is an effective ingredient for reducing fine lines and wrinkles. It's found to promote a smoother, younger complexion quickly, without expensive and painful chemical peels, surgery or injections. This patented peptide solution is found in StriVectin-SD.

Green Tea Extract - Green tea's anti-inflammatory and anti-growth qualities are found in many skin care products designed to reduce the appearance of puffiness, wrinkles, fine lines and large pores. Green Tea is found in the Dr. Brandt skin care line.

TNS - The biotechnology of the skin‘s natural healing process has arrived with the first tissue repairing complex containing growth factors found in normal, healthy skin. Unlike anything else currently on the market, TNS is the next level of skin rejuvenation that delivers dramatic results, for smoother, softer, younger looking skin. TNS is found in SkinMedica's TNS Recovery Complex.

A closer look at Strivectin-SD and its clones:

StriVectin comes in a 2 ounce cream for $75. I have only seen the 6 ounce cream which is what I own. It was first marketed as an intensive repair for existing stretch marks. It claims to be clinically proven to reduce the length, depth and texture of existing marks; it corrects discoloration, stimulates collagen synthesis and has significant measurable results in 93% of the subject tested. (We have no idea who the subjects were or if this study was random thus a true scientifically sound study.
There is a lot of information about this product in the brochure it comes with.

Essentially StriVectin-SD is based on Klein Becker's proprietary Striadril Complex consisting of Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract. Striadril, an active ingredient containing patented pentapeptides that significantly improve the appearance of facial wrinkles, stretch marks, and minor skin imperfections by aiding the build-up of collagen. Unlike many other anti-aging treatments, Striadril is more stable, causes less irritation, safer, and more effective. http://www.cosmeticsurgery-news.com/strivectin_sd.html

It was discovered that this stretch mark miracle also reduced the appearance of lines and wrinkles. We have the word appearance please note. The active, wrinkle-reducing compound in StriVectin was shown to increase collagen I synthesis, increase collagen IV synthesis, and reduce wrinkles by as much as 68%. StriVectin was also found to increase firmness, improve the appearance of age-spots and dark under-eye circles as well as reduce the actual length, depth and volume of wrinkles. (There is the word appearance again.) At well over $100, I want these lines gone not just the appearance of them gone!

Let’s look at the ingredients in StriVectin-SD:

Deionized Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sesame Oil, Caprylic/CapricTriglyceride, Sweet Almond Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Striadril Complex, Glycerin, PPG-12/SMDI Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate, Cocoa Butter, Stearic Acid, Shea Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mango Butter, Peppermint Oil, Methylparaben, Xanthan Gum, Propylparaben, Triethanolamine, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Retinyl Palmitate, Tetrahexydecyl Ascorbate

The proprietary ingredients in Striadil Complex are Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Siegesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Polyglyceryl Methacrylate, Propylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Glucosamine HCl, Algae Extract, Yeast Extract, Urea, Butylene Glycol, Hydrocotyl Extract, Coneflower Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Bearberry Extract and Licorice PTH.

PreVentin-AT found at CVS at a fraction of the cost (also 6 ounces) tells us that it is for fine lines and deep wrinkles; that is significantly diminished the appearance of lines and wrinkles.

There are no proprietary ingredients in PreVentin-AT; perhaps the reason for the price. There may be something to the Striadil Complex. The ingredients are:

Water; Stearic Acid; Acetyl Hexapeptide-3; Glycerin; Cetyl Alcohol; Glyceryl Stearate; Propylene Glycol; Butylene Glycol; Isopropyl Palmitate; Triethanolamine; Polyglyceryl-Methacrylate; Palmitoyl Oligopeptide; Cocoa Butter; Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein; Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch; Aloe Barbadensis Gel; Ethyl Macadamiate; Sorbitan Olivate; Dimethicone; Dimethicone Copolyol; Peppermint Oil; Diazolidinyl Urea; Methylparaben; Propylparaben; Mango Butter; Disodium EDTA; PEG-8 Dimethicone and Octyldodecanol and Propylene Glycol and Zea Mays and Tocopheryl Acetate and Cholecalciferol and Retinyl Palmitate and Ascorbic Acid and Pyridoxine HCL and Silica and Sodium Propoxyhydroxypropyl Thiosulfate Silica; Extracts of: Cucumber; Green Tea; Grapeseed; Peach; Seaweed; Lemon; Calendula; Ginkgo Biloba; Ginger

Strixaderm contains Deionized Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sesame Oil, Caprylic/Capric/Triglycerides, Almond oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Siegesbeckia Orietalis Extract, Polyglyceryl Methacrylate, Propylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Glucosamine HCI, Algae Extract, Stri Vera Blend (Aloe vera, yeast extract, urea, Butylene Glycol, Hydrocotyl Extract, Coneflower Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Bearberry Extract and Licorice Extract), Glycerin, PPG -12/SMDI Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate and PEG - 100 Stearate, Cocoa Butter, Stearic Acid, Shea Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Mango Butter, Peppermint Oil, Methylparaben, Xanthan gum, Propylparaben, Triethanolamine, DMDM Hydantoin, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Disodium EDTA, Retinyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate.

Note the Stri Vera Blend which PreVentin-AT does not seem to contain.

There are warnings for these products. They are to be used only topically; test the product on your skin (the insider of your elbow is a good place) before beginning to use it. Once you start using it if you have any terrible redness or itching, stop using it. Keep it out of the reach of children and use it only if you are over 18 or with your doctor’s permission. StriVentin also recommends that pregnant or nursing moms should not use the product.

I use it just as directed. After I wash and dry my face I apply the cream. I use it 2 times a day; sometimes three which is fine. StriVectin is concentrated. They all are concentrated. I am not getting into the color, shape of the tube or smell. If that is information you want, let me know. I am not reviewing the product per se. I will say that a little goes a long way. I massage it into my neck and hands but I dab gently under my eyes and where the Restylane has been injected.

My final thoughts:

I hope my little briefing on skin care and this new treatment has been of help. Is it the new Botox? Not in my opinion. Does StriVectin work? Yes it does. Do the others? If you have used them, let me know. For a fraction of the price trying Preventin might be the way to go but then again it is missing that key propriety blend.

I do think there are ingredients such as caffeine, green tea and copper that have some beauty benefits but I do think they are temporary. StriVectin and its clones are no match for Restylane or Botox but they are non-invasive products. They all claim to help smooth out skin and diminish lines. I have noticed an improvement in my neck though there were few lines to begin with. However now I see none.

If you choose cosmetic surgery, the only permanent (and even that is not forever) and ultimate anti-aging treatment, make sure your surgeon is Board Certified, shows you before and after pictures and has done many procedures. I highly recommend the website www.faceforum.com. Good luck!

Please feel free to leave me a question or comment or e-mail me privately.

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